THE RESTAURANT AWARDS DIARIES

Between their classics old and new: Fats chow funn, noodles as chewy as mochi, which has a veneer of crisp; honey walnut shrimp in fluffy, shattery clouds of batter, slaked with sweet mayo; crackly edged “Spam” constructed from Duroc pork; and, for dessert, pale blushing lychee granita, by using a cache of incredibly hot pink dragon fruit waiti